PeruNorth's musings on events & destinations in Northern Peru, Amazonia ... and beyond. Detailed tour reviews.
The Spectacled - or Andean - Bear (Tremarctos ornatus) holds a special place in PeruNorth's heart, being the emblematic large mammal of northern Peru's dry forest and cloud forest.
It is fitting, therefore, that we should give this attractive and endangered species some blog time!
Like Iquitos, Santiago de Lagunas (to give the full name) is a jungle town founded by missionaries, in the Amazonian province of Loreto; and like Iquitos, it is a jumping-off point for visiting the surrounding rainforest, especially the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve.
But, even though Lagunas is nearly 100 years older than Iquitos, having been founded in 1670 by a priest, Juan Lorenzo Lucero, it has a fraction of the population and receives a fraction of the visitors.
A natural highlight of an Amazon cruise or lodge stay in Loreto is the interaction with Amazon River Dolphins (Inia geoffrensis), known in Spanish as boto or bufeo.
Except for a tuft between their ears and on the end of their tail, these medium-sized, dark Peruvian dogs are completely hairless. In spite of their unorthodox looks - or perhaps because of them - viringo dogs were prized by the Moche, Chimu and Virus cultures, who included them as sacrifices in many important burials, and depicted them on painted pottery.
One of PeruNorth's first forays into Northern Peru was in 2006, to see first-hand Catarata Gocta, which had just been claimed as the third-highest waterfall in the world. At that time, we learned that Gocta was just one of many drops from this one plateau in the Amazonas province.
In the subsequent years, another of these waterfalls, Yumbilla, had been surveyed by Peru's Geographical Institute (IGN), and found to have a total drop 125 m (407 ft) higher than Gocta. So, it went to top of our list of must-see natural attractions.
A new bird species has been identified in Cerros de Amotape National Park in Tumbes: the White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora), a member of the hummingbird family measuring 12 cm (4 in) in length, on average. Adult males have a blue head and breast, a dark-blue hood, iridescent upper parts, and a white abdomen and tail. And, as the name suggests, they have a white crescent on the neck.
Guano (seabird droppings) covers the coastal islands and cliffs of Peru in a thick, odiferous, white layer. Derived from the Quechua word huanu (manure), guano has been used as a natural, nitrate-rich fertilizer since pre-Inca times. The sunny atmosphere of the coast bakes in the nitrates, and lack of rain ensures that the droppings are not washed away.
In 1997, the Peruvian Parliament approved a new Law of Protected Natural Areas in which Private Conservation Areas (Áreas de Conservación Privadas or ACPs) were given legal recognition.
PeruNorth recently had the chance to visit ACP #29 - Juningue, located near Moyobamba in the Department of San Martin. This 78-hectare parcel of land was granted its Private Conservation Area status, by the Ministry of the Environment, in February 2011. This status lasts for 10 years, and yet five years later, the owners - a group of nine siblings who had inherited the land - are still unsure exactly what to do with it.
The attractive Amazonas town of Leymebamba is gradually becoming a trekking destination - perhaps to rival Cusco or Huaraz, one day - as the region's remarkable archaeology reveals more fascinating ruins, set in stunning mountainous and jungle-covered locations, replete with flora and fauna.
The wonderful trek to Condor Lake is already well-known, although far from busy; and below are a selection of six further hikes that can be done, beginning in Leymebamba.
