In November, 2023, PeruNorth received the following enquiry from Thomas, in Portland, Maine: “I have been interested in the Moche/Chimu ever since reading an article in The New Scientist about their engineers who were priests because they knew how to bring the water to the desert (as I remember). My wife and I are interested in finding out more about your coastal civilization itineraries and how they work.”

It also turned out that the Urquharts were birders, so we settled upon an itinerary starting in Trujillo, then moving to Chiclayo, in order to see the best-known Moche and Chimu sites … and taking in the dry forest areas of Chaparri and Pomac for the endemic bird species.

They then made the journey inland, by private vehicle, over the Continental Divide, to Gocta Lodge, experiencing multiple eco-systems along the way. From here they could explore the vestiges of the mysterious Chachapoya culture and enjoy the birding in the abundant cloud forest.

Here is a review of their 10-day expedition, undertaken in February 2024:

• What were your favourite cultural destinations in the itinerary?

“Very hard to say as they were all fascinating, and each one had something that made it stand out.

That said, El Brujo stood out as a site and the Royal Tombs Museum is a fantastic museum.”

• Who was your guide? How did they perform?

“Our guide was Julio Porras Sandoval; our driver was Alfredo Jimenes Torrejon. Both were excellent.

We also had a local guide at Chaparri who was great.”

• What were your favourite natural destinations in the itinerary? 

“We had good birding throughout the trip (thanks to Julio), but Chaparri was amazing.

After that, the Pomac Pacific Dry Forest was a little disappointing, but that was certainly made up for by Tucume and its setting.” 

• Which was your favourite accommodation and why?

“Gocta Lodge was the most spectacular with the falls and wide lawns and flowers.

La Xalca Hotel in Chachapoyas was also lovely.

The most intimate (and so actually my favorite) was Los Faiques in Salas. Wonderful cactus gardens and delightful "home" feel.”

• Which was your favourite restaurant?

“A charming restaurant on a balcony in Trujillo, Celler de Cler, recommended by Julio.”

• Which was your favourite dish?:

“Duck with fried rice.”

• Which was your favourite drink?

“Cerveza. And of course, Pisco Sour.”

• Did you lose or gain weight over the course of the holiday!?

“In fact we both lost weight.”

• What form of transport did you use?

‘Big Range Rover type car, immaculately maintained by Alfredo. Comfortable and practical for long drives as well as on dirt roads.”

• Did your itinerary involve any hiking? How would you rate it in terms of difficulty?

“We had one long hike, to Gocta Falls. 5.5 km each way, up and down. Not especially difficult but long and tiring.

At Kuelap (2,800 meters) we rode because of mud and rain. Also altitude. Ride on muddy slippery, rocky path was quite hairy, especially going down!”

• What was the most pointless item in your luggage!?

“I think we used everything we brought. We packed very carefully.”

• What were your favourite natural encounters?

“Burrowing owls at the Moche pyramids. They were held in special reverence because they were the only totem that could communicate both with the gods (flying up) and with the dead, burrowing into the earth.

Also Peruvian fox that followed us in Chaparri.

Julio and I also found an owl at night (not sure what kind--I need the bird list!).”

• Did you suffer any insect bites?

“Insects were not a major problem.”