The Peruvian Amazon has many entry points, but the two most popular with visitors are Iquitos in the north-east of the country; and Puerto Maldonado, in the south-east.

Both of these cities are gateways to huge protected areas of low Amazon rainforest … and have a number of excellent lodges from which to enjoy these. However, there are some subtle, but significant differences between the two:

• Southern Amazonia (around Puerto Maldonado) tends to be drier, and the forest here is rarely flooded.

• Northern Amazonia has large areas that are under water for six months of the year or more.

• This has an impact on the numbers and types of species that are to be found in the respective areas. For example, you won’t see river dolphins in Tambopata Reserve, but they are common in Pacaya-Samiria.

Not many travellers get to experience both eco-systems in a single visit, as there is so much to see in Peru and people usually have time constraints.

But English couple, Jordan Fry & Annabelle Burt had a deep interest in the natural history of the rainforest and took the time to visit Muyuna Amazon Lodge (in the North) in June 2019 and Tambopata Research Centre (TRC) in July. Here is their comparative review:

‘Activities

There was a wide variety of activities at both Muyuna and TRC, all of which could be altered to meet your interests and needs.

On arrival at TRC, you receive a presentation explaining all of the different activities and you plan your itinerary based on this. This was a great way of doing it to ensure all the activities were what you wanted to do.

Most activities at TRC were walks through the rainforest, which were good fun but some of them could be repetitive as you were often walking around the same trails.

However, at Muyuna, a lot of the activities were based on the river, which we thoroughly enjoyed.

Being on the river provided a nice break from the heat and humidity of the rainforest, and we also saw more animals, and a greater variety of animals on the boat trips.

We asked for a boat activity at TRC which they kindly provided for us, but this would not have been an option if we hadn’t asked.

The heat and mosquitoes could sometimes be distracting on the walks at Muyuna, but this is obviously unavoidable and to be expected in the rainforest.

This was less of an issue in TRC, but this was because we had freak weather conditions meaning the temperature was moderate and the mosquitoes didn’t come out.

Overall, I would say we preferred the activities at Muyuna, purely for the variety of different boat trips which were always varied and exciting.

TRC gave lots of options for longer/shorter walks depending on fitness levels which was a nice addition.

Staff

The staff at both lodges were faultless. Nothing was too much trouble and they were all very friendly and lovely to chat to.

In TRC, they upgraded everyone’s rooms because of the cold weather, and we would come back to hot water bottles in the beds every night.

Accommodation

Both lodges were very clean and comfortable.

TRC was definitely more luxurious than Muyuna, but both were unique and provided different benefits.

The walls of the individual cabins in Muyuna were surrounded by mosquito nets, so you could be protected from the bugs without losing the connection to nature. They provided hammocks on the balcony of each cabin so you can relax and enjoy the views in between each activity.

If you were lucky, you would get a room with brilliant views overlooking the river, but rooms further down were blocked by trees - this was still nice, but not quite the same.

At TRC, you were also able to feel very at one with nature because there was one open wall on every room.

The walkways to the rooms were enjoyable and a good opportunity to spot more wildlife, with monkeys swinging overhead.

As you can imagine with rooms being so open at both lodges, they weren’t sound proof at all, it was lovely to hear the animal noises at night, but you could also hear your neighbours - fine if they have the same sleeping patterns as you!

Food

Both lodges provided buffet style food with loads of variety, and it was always very tasty and hot.

Muyuna were particularly accommodating with dietary needs and bought Jordan a different option when he couldn’t eat the fish that was on offer that night, we didn’t even have to ask.

The food was all grown and sourced locally, with fresh fruit, tea and coffee always on offer.

At TRC they always had cake and crisps on offer, as well as fruit, tea, coffee and juices.

They also had a brilliant bar at TRC and we ate with our guide which provided a great opportunity to get to know them better.

Muyuna did also have fresh juices, tea and coffee as well as the additional option of beers and soft drinks from the payment counter.

Guides

We were able to build a great rapport with both our guides, both were knowledgable and wanted us to get the best out of our trip.

When it rained at Muyuna, our guide Julio sat in and had a beer with us and told us lots of amazing stories about growing up in the rainforest.

Saul at TRC was amazing at making everything interesting, even when we weren’t seeing much, telling us about the eco-system, trees, river and so on.

We were very sad to say goodbye to both our guides.

Animal Sightings

The animal sightings were brilliant at Muyuna, we didn’t see an anaconda but others in the lodge did, so I feel like the chances are quite good.

We were very lucky to see 5 sloths, some of which were moving around in the day, a very special experience.

We also saw lots of caiman, pink and grey river dolphins, tarantula, capuchins, squirrel monkeys, iguanas, snakes and lots of amazing birds.

The animal sightings at TRC were more limited, but again this was down to bad luck with the cold weather. Despite this, we still saw 5 species of monkey and we nearly found a tapir on foot, but were blocked by a fallen tree.

The macaws at TRC (the subject of their research) were amazing, especially around the lodge, however we didn’t get to see them at the clay lick due to the weather.

We were hoping to see river otters at TRC, but we were then told that TRC isn’t actually in the area where these are, so it’s important to note this before you go, they are however found at TRC's sister lodge Refugio Amazonas and therefore it may be worth an extra night there, if otters are on your to see list.

It’s hard to compare the animal sightings between the two lodges because the eco systems were so different, more than we expected and due to the freak weather conditions. Both however provided very memorable experiences that we are grateful to take away with us.

Extras

They provided wellies at both Muyuna and TRC which was really great as it meant your own boots don’t get muddy and wet.

Muyuna also provide a free reusable water bottle to each guest, which was not only useful but also a really lovely keepsake to take home.

A particularly special element of TRC is the macaws that come to the lodge and join you at breakfast, they love cake and will come right up and sit on your shoulders if you have some!

The research side of the lodge was toned down for guests, and despite the macaw lecture that we attended, we would’ve enjoyed learning more about the work that they’re doing and it being a larger part of the experience.

Both lodges dealt with tipping staff very well, with Muyuna leaving envelopes in your room for you to leave tips behind, and TRC have a tip box in reception, this avoids any awkwardness and was appreciated.

We were unsure with how much to tip at each, and guidance on this before from office staff may be useful.

There was no wifi at either lodge, but we really enjoy this.

Overall, the two experiences were very different, but both just as special. We would definitely go back to both, and really appreciate the incredible memories that they have left us with.